Why Orchid Flower Bud Loss?

Seeing a small protrusion appeared from the body of our orchids we may have often experienced. But it would be very happy if the bulge had grown into a small bunches of flowers with petals that lined the candidate along the bunches of flowers. After day after day passed by, prospective bud growing and .... 1-2 fruits candidate suddenly florets yellow and fall off ... .!!?? although some other candidates successfully grown bud and bloom, but inwardly there is a sense of curiosity, why it happened ....
There are many factors that could cause the collapse of the candidate before the flowers bloom. Here I extract from my friends on the discussion mailing list about the loss of orchid flower orchid:

    * The first flower that appears from the results of orchid tissue culture in general, losing some potential interest, but it sometimes is only a short length of clusters and bring a little bud. This is because new plants enter the generative phase the first time in their life cycle, so that metabolic hormones as well as accumulation of ATP (energy) is still not perfect.
    * Lack of light can cause hair loss. When the light is too low then the rate of photosynthesis is also low, so that food reserves are acquired only a little. When stimulated fertilizing plants with formulations for flowering, the plant physiological stimulated to enter the stage where the generative phase is more dominant. Consequently with the existing food reserves, the orchid remains determined to bring flowers. Finally, after the bunches are formed, usually of short bunches of flowers, and lots of falling interest candidate. This happens because the flowers candidates receive less food and energy supplies. Candidate interest is also a living tissue that requires energy and cell material.
    * Drought due to high temperature is also one of the reasons why candidates fall flowers. Why? because at high temperatures the evaporation of water was too high. Reserve the water (moisture) in minimal media will quickly disappear due to evaporation. Evaporation does not only happen in the media (evaporation) but also occur on the surface of the orchid plant itself (transpiration). When the water evaporation takes place continuously, the plant will lose a lot of water in his cell. The organ was first exposed to the ill effects of declining water levels in the cell is young tissue (meristem) as candidates for flower bud, so that the prospective bud cells will shrink and the network looks wrinkled and eventually fall.
    * Sudden temperature changes. A sudden drastic temperature changes can cause sudden physiological changes such as decreased enzymatic activity in the plant body. Enzyme activity is strongly influenced by temperature. The decrease of this enzymatic activity will lead to the effect of "stress" on orchid plants so that the various symptoms such as leaf yellowing and loss, etc. of candidates fall flowers. Level optimum temperature for enzyme activity varies greatly depending on the species. In addition, for the highland orchids have a candidate in a state of bud, then suddenly brought to the lowlands, the evaporation of water in the body of the plant will dramatically increase, so that the sensitive organs of plants (potential bud, root tips, etc.) will shrink and wither. Be careful to make orchids that have a potential bud and taken away and the long journey by car or air-space ac hot and stuffy, it is feared when exiting the car, the plant will be "shocked" by sudden temperature changes.
    * The concentration of foliar fertilizer that is too thick. The concentration of fertilizer is too dense than a negative impact on other parts of plants, florets bungapun candidate is also very sensitive to damage. If liquid manure is the leaves that are too concentrated on prospective flowers then, are concentrated liquid will easily penetrate the cell wall because of the candidate flowers are a young network is still thin cell walls. After penetrating dindingsel then concentrated liquid will cause uncontrolled osmosis, so that the cell fluid would come out of the cell and plasmolysis occurs. Cell membrane will be wrinkled and damaged so that eventually the cell will die. From the exterior, will occur in the future drying flowers and then fall out.
    * Invasion by flies (fly X, still in search of R & D team web.anggrek.org) most likely a kind of imago adult insects like fruit flies or butterflies that lay their eggs into the flower so the larvae will eat the bud, or the flies X had to suck fluid cells from the prospective bud.
    * Lice attack elephants. Elephant louse has a habit of "taste-taste" network network she suction fluid young to his cell. In addition, adult fleas elephants also perform the same ritual to determine the exact position for the baby dear. After gaining the right position he would drill a passage to lay their eggs. Sections of young flowers is one of the favorite part of this infestation. Pas interview, said he still feels "sweet".
    * Attack the disease. Attack the disease is generally a secondary effect due to environmental factors that support. For example, a too high humidity, air circulation is not smooth, the slits on the wet bud candidate (for a long time). All of these things would excite the disease to penetrate into the young tissues of the candidate flowers which incidentally is a young network that is still "soft" and sensitive to physiological disorders.
    * Effect of chemical ingredients such as hormone growth regulators, etc.. The use of inappropriate can cause an endogenous hormonal imbalance in the body of the plant. This will continue on the interference with the enzymatic metabolism in plants, so it will affect on cell division and the provision of energy for plant metabolism. It can also cause an increase in ethylene hormone that causes hair loss and possible candidates for flowers.

Tips planting orchids

     1.  Location, temperature and humidity: Orchids will grow well in the highlands (in the lowlands are also able to live, but must meet the exact requirements), the temperature ranges from 15-35 degrees Celsius (optimum temperature 21 degrees Celsius) with good air circulation. Humidity ranges from 65-70%.
   

     2.  Sunlight: abstinence orchid plants direct sun, but still tolerant to the sun in the morning (between the hours of 7-9 am). Orchid less sunlight to grow thin, narrow leaves and long, on the contrary, if excess sunlight the leaves will turn yellow like fire. Orchids will grow well if hung in the shade of a tree.
  

     3.  Watering: There is no set time to water the orchid. Practical way to find out if plants need watering is to monitor the condition of the media using the earnings. Watering should be with the sprayer and water that used free chlorine and other chemical compounds. More young orchids need a lot of water, watering should be 1 day 1 time. For larger orchids, 2 days is sufficient. Too much water will make the vulnerable orchid fungus that causes leaves and root rot. Orchids should not get wet because it will quickly fall.
  

     4.  Fertilizing: Orchids need to be nurtured to make diligent flowering. Tips for choosing the right fertilizer is selected liquid fertilizer (foliar fertilizer), NPK macro elements must be adapted to plant age (young orchids require more N elements, while the orchid is ready to bloom require more P elements). Fertilization is done once a week with a dose of 1 / 2 teaspoon to 1 liter of water. Spray a solution of fertilizer with the sprayer on the leaves and roots. Fertilization can be done more often by reducing the dose.
  

     5.  Media planting: Planting media is good is not fast rotten, facilitate root attached, hollow (porous) for air circulation, can store nutrients, and not easily become a source of disease. Kinds of media are the ferns, moss, coconut fiber, charcoal, wood, broken bricks or tile

     6.  Pot: For the pot can be selected potting soil or plastic. Potting soil can store water, while the pot is not plastic. Orchids also good planted in blocks of ferns and hung under trees. Repotting should be done periodically, eg every 6 months to give more space on the roots of orchids.

Euphorbia Lively Flowers

The beauty of Euphorbia is when grown with blooming flowers. To get it is not difficult, just need accuracy and patience. First, let Euphorbia allowed to grow perfect before flowering. Here it takes patience to not enjoy the beauty of flowers while, because at this phase of each flower that appears directly potes (cut flowers without the tool, directly using the hands). This is done to stimulate the emergence of leaves and stems can grow exponentially. Each time the flowers appear immediately cut. Until felt was lush canopy. Furthermore, if the canopy was dense, left to grow new flowers. Within 2 weeks the flowers will meet canopy.

Plastic Silencer Heat to Bonsai

After doing the pruning, the growth of new shoots highly anticipated. However the young twigs that die when the sun, very disappointing. For that, use plastic wrap sticks with transparent until new shoots appear. On the plastic was made a hole for moisture stable. With this technique bonsai resistant to sunlight.

Bougenvil in Pot

Bougenvil is beautiful. Moreover, if in a pot or made into a bonsai. However, failure to grow in the pot reaches 100%. Because, its roots are very small, so if just a little shaken to death. To overcome this, when planted in pots, polybags are not removed. But make 4 slices on the side of polybags. Enter the plant into the pot then fill with humus of leaves until full. Avoid using manure because it's too hot for a very small roots. Good luck.

Adenium Flowers

Guessing Color Vanda

Choosing orchid is easy. But for the beginner is often wrong when buying Vanda. Want to get a blooming Vanda bright but gets dark or vice versa. Here are tips from Ir Diah Wisdiastuti Darsono, from the Ornamental Plant Research Institute, Ministry of Agriculture Jakarta. "Look at the bottom of the leaf color, if color is rather dark means dark-colored flowers, but if it means bright flower color will be bright.

Cotton wrapper orchid

Making deliveries, sometimes orchids were damaged in the move. To fix this, can use a cotton and tissue paper to wrap it. First Interest wrapped with cotton and then covered with tissue paper. This trick can be applied to several species of orchids, such as miltonia, and brassia. In this way the orchid will be safe during shipping.

Caring for plants in the rainy season

The rainy season should be aware of the hobbyists in ornamental plants. Because it can threaten the survival of your favorite plants. Plants become rotten and new shoots can be messy. Here are tips on caring for ornamental plants in the rainy season by Supriyanto, an ornamental plant hobbyists.
Succulent Included is a succulent plant Adenium, Pachypodium, Euphorbia, also cycads. If the rainy season has arrived, protect plants by using a plastic UV (ultra-violet). Or replace the planting medium with a more porous planting medium. So that excess water can be directly discarded. Thus succulent roots and tubers of plants do not become rotten. Porous growth media for example, fern, gravel and cocopeat.
Add bactericide and fungicide at the time of watering. This is to treat the roots of crops damaged by rain water.
  Do not do grafting or cuttings, because it usually ends with decay and death. Unless you have a special place to do the grafting and cuttings. Reduce watering.



Nonsukulen
Nonsukulen plants usually live in areas of damp. Such as anthurium, aglaonema, sansieviera, kaladium, etc. These plants do not need much sunlight, but requires a lot of water. However, watering should not be too often so as not to cause decay.
The placement of plants must be protected from direct sunlight. Use plastic paranet and UV, with UV plastic composition above paranet. Thus the moisture and keep plants fresh.
Special aglaonema anthurium and taro should not be exposed to rain. If exposed to rain water, flush again with plain water is added with a fungicide or bactericide. Watering was carried out on the planting medium, not on the plant. In this way, then your favorite ornamental plants will be spared from the deadly disease. Watering was done when the planting medium already looked dry.

Diseases of Aglaonema 2

The disease usually attacks the aglaonema is rotten roots. Usually caused by fungi due to poor sanitation planting media.
Root rot and brown. When held by the roots will be broken. So that leaves aglaonema wilt, and could not appear shoots.
The fix is to do the replacement planting medium. That is the media mixed dolomite lime husk fuel. Discard the rotten roots. Then spread with a fungicide. Last quarantine of plants in the shade.

Diseases of Aglaonema

The disease most often attacks aglaonema are white flies.
The fix is, if aglaonema already mature enough to handle it can use insecticides. However, if the disease only affects a few leaves then use a little water mixed deterjent. Take a cotton bud, apply on the affected pest. Try to keep the water mixed with detergent that it does not drip in the planting medium because it can cause plants to wilt

Sunflower

Sunflower (Helianthus annuus L.) is an annual plant of the tribe kenikir-kenikiran (Asteraceae) are popular, both as an ornamental plant as well as oil-producing plants. Flowers of this plant is very distinctive: large, usually bright yellow, with a large flower head (diameter can reach 30cm). This flower is actually a compound flower, composed of hundreds to thousands of small flowers on one head. Sunflower also have a peculiar behavior, namely the interest is always facing toward the sun or heliotropisme. French people call it tournesol or "wanderer sun." However, these properties removed in a variety of new cultivars for oil production because it takes a lot of energy and reduce yield.
Sunflower is a national interest PRC and the official state flower of Kansas, USA. Table of contents

Caring for Bonsai

You can care for your bonsai in a simple way, but that too needs its own knowledge so that you may live long bonsai. While doing the measuring irrigation advance Ph levels and groundwater to help us give the dose of water on bonsai. Give the water at the first time bonsai plant, and do not forget to give it more water during dry weather and rising air temperatures. Choose a pot that can flatten flush water into various directions. To choose a fertilizer fertilizer nitrogen, phosphorus and potassium to balance levels of oxygen in the soil and plant health. Give the vitamins to add luster of leaves, twigs and branches and strengthen others. Trim the twigs, leaves, branches that grow out of regular shape we want, is also a disturbing form of wild roots. When pruning discuss it so that does not cause injury stems trimmed. Bonsai Place where the morning sunlight, but sheltered from the blazing afternoon sun. To prevent pests, provide anti-pest which you can buy at the store plants. Consult with experts medicinal plants to provide a suitable pesticide for your Bonsai plant.

Bonsai Planting

To grow bonsai is not complicated, you can buy a bonsai in the shop will take plants or plants that you like on your home page. Select plants with a main stem that is strong enough and move it to the pot with extreme caution so as not to damage the crop. Then shape the flow of plants in accordance with what you like by using wire. Check twigs and branches that grow on a regular basis to form a bonsai accordance with what we want. Another thing that is not less important is the selection of land, because there the formation stems, branches and the branches are determined. A good soil for bonsai is not a land full of humus, but each type of bonsai has a particular soil needs different from each other. We recommend that you consult with experts of the plant. Choose the soil with little humus content of soil moisture and keep it but do not let too much water or to cause the soil to clot, it can threaten the life of the plant.

SWITCHING / grafting ALA VIETNAM for Adenium

Connection of Vietnam-style, so named because the technology at first discovered and usually done by farmers in Vietnam.
Connection of this is the easiest way for beginners, because it does not need to hone the ability to cut a V shape or the number 7 inverted, between scion and rootstock are identical, but only horizontally cut both scions and rootstocks.
One drawback is, how this connection can not be used if the stem above is too small or too young, and can not be done for entrees top (meristem). The link is due primarily to the case, not easy to do the binding of the stem of the rootstock. How it works a la Vietnam connection is as follows:
Prepare all the equipment (the same way as any other connection).

   1. Cut the stem below the horizontal, about 2-3 cm above the cob.
   2. Create a bond in the lower stem with a plastic rope in preparation for the tie rod above.
   3. Cut the stem above the horizontal (plot rootstock), then cut the top too, so the entrees into a cylindrical piece, with a height of 1-2 cm.
   4. Glue the stem above the cylinder on the rod down, and plastic rope that has been attached to the shaft bottom, tied around the stem up through the top of the cylinder in a cross, and fastened back on the rootstock.
   5. Close the connection field, give the label.
   6. two weeks after the grafting, shoots begin to grow. At this stage, let the plastic ties remain firmly attached, up to 1-2 months.

SWITCHING / grafting Insert for Adenium

Connect inline rootstock usually done if you want to connect, its size more than 2 x folding in diameter than the upper stem. It could be if there is such a thing, made an incision rootstock V shape as usual, but the rod of which is inserted in the incision can be two or three bars, namely at the edge of the left, center and right. This can be done easily on grafting Adenium, Adenium not because berkambium and all cells are living cells or meristematik, so all fields can be used for the connection area, unlike the woody plants, which, if connected, then the cambium must meet with the cambium.
However, continued with the letter V with a few entrees that included at one rootstock, would reduce the beauty of the end result. Therefore, if the lower stem are much bigger than the stem upper or entrees, it is usually done by way of connecting insert, the lower stem created a pyramid upside down from the edge of the stem until the appropriate thickness of the upper stem. The rootstock can be inserted up to more than two entress around the outer circumference of the trunk.
Connect the insert would produce a more beautiful plants as rootstock seemed to issue a branch at the cut stem.
SWITCHING / grafting Insert ONE EYE
Connection of one eye, is one way to efficiency, that is to multiply the plants quickly, with limited entrees owned. Rootstock to be used, still have to cut the stem, to avoid apical dominance or the dominance of main stem growth. The order of works is as follows:

   1. Prepare the upper stem. Try to keep the stem on a leaf (leaf no cut). Unless the eye was no leafy shoots again.
   2. Cut the root stock or rootstock, approximately 2-3 cm above the cob.
   3. Peel the stem side down, forming the number 7 is reversed.
   4. Cut the stem of one eye (with leaves), field line number 7 in the stem upside down
   5. Glue the entrees on the lower stem, and tied with plastic straps. Make sure the buds do not come attached. Further continuation of plastic covered, and labeled on the varieties and dates of grafting.
   6. Two weeks after the process, the buds begin to emerge from the entrees. If emerged shoots from the rootstock, shortly before it grows bigger discarded, because it will reduce the growth rates of shoots of entrees.

Propagation Adenium

Adenium can be propagated by seed (commonly referred to as the breeding is mating), and multiplication are not married, such as cuttings, grafting / grafting, grafting and grafting.
Seeds are the result of pollination between the male flowers to female flowers, which then produce fruit and seeds. In a normal fruit (the fruit commonly known as Adenium seedpod), will have between 50 to 100 seeds Adenium. Once cooked, the seeds can be planted to produce new plants. Breeding of seeds, bulbs will produce plants with fast and large base of the stem, but this breeding to produce puppies that have the character / nature other than the parent, so it can not be expected to obtain an identical offspring.
Breeding without breeding (cuttings, grafting, grafting and grafting), is a way of breeding that will produce plants that are genetically identical to their parent. Breeding in this way, ordinary people do to reproduce a variety of easily and quickly. Cuttings and grafts, is faithful to eventually get a plant with a dense canopy, but this does not quickly produce caudex or tubers are big and beautiful. To produce plants with a caudex or tubers Adenium big and beautiful, and to produce editorial that is identical to its parent, then be taken two ways of propagation, ie propagation of seeds to produce plants with beautiful bulbs, and then performed grafting way to get an identical plant canopy nature or characteristics desired by the parent.
Sowing seeds to produce plants that beautifully gnarled. After the age of 8-12 months, the plant was ready for it jointed stems. Before starting the grafting, prepared equipment and materials as follows:

   1. Knives for menggrafting. Use a sharp knife and thin, with long blades 8-12 cm. Knives are the most easily searchable cutter knife, but it quickly blunt knife, and can only be used a few times, because they can not re-honed or sharpened. The knife is commonly used for menggrafting Adenium is a type of stainless knife, for example victorinoc brand.
   2. Plastics for the binding of the connection / grafting. Can use transparent tape, or use a thin plastic PE, and sliced 2 cm wide.
   3. Plastic cover the field of grafting / grafting, can use PE plastic with a size adapted to the size of the area continued. For connection with rootstock 1-2 cm diameter, use a plastic PE size 8 × 12 cm.
   4. Labels, labels and pencil rope. Labels are used to write information about the species / varieties to be joined. Can be added on date data connection, to provide certainty when the plastic cover results of grafting may be loaded.
   5. Plants that will be grafted. For rootstock, select healthy plants, bulbs and stems are marked with a hard, dark green, and areas of grafting a stem diameter greater than or equal to entress or upper trunk. When cut, white bars no brown or black spots, and sticky with lymph node or white color. While the stem above, choose a healthy, older (marked with dark green color, hard, generally the size of at least 0.5 cm in diameter).

Euphorbia milii for Fertile and Flower Growing

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Baca secara fonetik

 If you know the character of Euphorbia milii, then these plants will flourish and diligent flowering. Some things to note:
Watering: Euphorbia like water. but do not like wet, the water requirement is high. But the water supply berklebihan, can lead to root rot. Root rot is brown, mushy like porridge when held. Conversely, if watering is rarely done, the plants exposed to dehydration. The sign, plants shrink, leaf yellowing, easily fall out and the figure of the plant becomes stunted. If left unchecked, sooner or later, your plants will languish, and die.
Watering was done when the media looks dry. But do not believe in the eye only. Use the finger, to probe the medium 1-2 cm deep. If the soil feels masah, yes, Euphorbia You do not need watering. Conversely if it feels dry, immediately do the watering.
Watering time should be early morning, at -8.00-09.00 or afternoon, 15:00 to 16:00 o'clock
Do not water at the time of day or trerlalu scorching sun. Useless, the water will mengicap before absorbed by plants.
Watering is considered sufficient, if the water was out of the hole under the pot.
Use a sprayer, for the water that comes out is more subtle and does not damage the crop.
Instead, all the plants involved watered for dust or dirt sticking yuang washed away.
Weeding In the pot, weed, grass or other wild plants, usually come grow. If left unchecked, they can take nutrients you Euphorbia property. Then, unplug it, weed-weed, and clean your pots.
Pruning Pruning aims to beautify the plant canopy, also to reduce evaporation during vegetation.
Branches irregular diopotong. New shoots that appear on the plants were 1 year old also trimmed so as not to inhibit the growth of the parent plant. (Sst. .. former cuts should not be made, you know, because it still can be used as seed, cuttings or grafting both sticks).
Old flowers should also be trimmed.
Euphorbia flowers can last for 2 months. Over time, the color faded, dull eventually wilt. We recommend that you cut for the new flowers emerge.
Fertilization: Like other plants, Euphorbia milii also need to remove the flower nutrients. Nutrients obtained from the media using the earnings. But sometimes not enough, so that should be given additional beryupa fertilizer.
Giving pukuk be routine and appropriate dosage. If excessive plants can be disturbed, if it's too little, miserable condition of the plant.
Newly planted crops should not be cultivated first. After that just given NPK 20:20:20, a dose of 1 g / liter / per plant. Application of fertilizer once a week with the way pour into the planting medium.
Other fertilizers that can be used, slow release fertilizer, such as Dekastar, Megakamp and Osmocote with a dose of 5 grams per plant. Application every 3 months. This fertilizer does not quickly dissolve, and absorb it slowly.
IDENTIFY DISEASE Euphorbia: Although rarely attacked by diseases or pests, disease-free does not mean Euphorbia. The following diseases should be aware of:
WHITE Flies. The cause of mealybug (Homopteraaleyrodiae), often appears in the dry season. Symptoms of attack: the black leaf on top and bottom surfaces, and seen a lot of ants around the leaf. Eggs and larvae under the leaf in place.
Medicine? Spray concentrations Pegasus 05, ml / liter plus 0.5 ml of Biosoft. Or with Metindo concentration of 1 g / liter of water.
Spraying should be directed to the lower leaf surface. Only, if the contract is severe, you should unplug it, and burned.
Bacterial SOFT ROT. Culprit, the bacterium Erwinia carotavora. Seen in bat attack